The case for glassware

As we saw in our first class, over the last decade we have seen a trend towards simplification in home-ware and glassware. The creation of more and more amazing all-purpose glassware, such as the Gabriel Glass, and a consumer trend for simplicity (and limited space) in the home have increasingly become the standard across the world. However, it is still interesting to understand the tradition of tailoring ones glassware to the beverage that is served. This doesn't only apply to wine. Most alcoholic beverage makers who focus on quality, tend to have an opinion on which glass to use to get the best overall olfactory experience.


If we ask the average consumer, they would say there are three different types of wine glasses. The large ones for red wine, smaller ones for white wine, and the narrow long glasses for sparkling wines. And while this is largely true, there's a little more nuance to it.

All traditional wineglasses are designed to have a stem. Not because this really impacts the flavor, but to keep the wine at the right temperature when holding the glass. The shape of the bowl, however, does impact our experience of flavor. The way we hold our head when drinking, the depth of the nose inside the glass, the curvature of the glass as it slopes upwards can all change the way we smell and taste different types of wine.

Let's talk about red wine glasses for example. Traditionally, red wines are served in a glass that has a wider and larger bowl. This because it promotes more oxidation which generally suits red wines better as it brings out the complexities of the wine. Even within the red wine glass category, there are different shapes. Glasses used for Bordeaux are generally designed to direct wine towards the back of the mouth, while glasses used for Burgundy are broader and aim to hit the front of the mouth. As the tongue has different receptors for different types of flavor profiles, the goal is to optimize where the alcohol will hit the mouth.

Other than size and shape, the size of the opening of the glass can also play a factor. A glass that has an opening that is too narrow can hide a lot of the aromas from a wine. Additionally, a sparkling wine glass is shaped the way it is in order to preserve the carbonation in the glass as long as possible, and it's opening is slated inwards for the same purpose.

To give you an overview, the below info-graphic shows a good range of wine glasses.




As an additional example, below you can see the variety of glassware available for beer.







Sources:
https://www.forbes.com/sites/tmullen/2016/08/25/why-the-shape-of-a-glass-shapes-the-taste-of-your-wine/#546fbae26554
https://winefolly.com/tutorial/the-importance-of-a-proper-wine-glass/
https://www.homestratosphere.com/types-of-beer-glasses/

Beyond Grapes - Why Not Jalapeños?

Jalapeños, macadamia nuts, and pineapples - oh my! Turns out, you can create wine out of pretty much anything you can ferment in a barrel. Consider the Cardinal Hollow Winery's 100% jalapeno wine, which pairs well with brie cheese. Or Mill Lane Winery's rhubarb wine, which tastes of peppermint, cedar, and raspberry flavors mixed with a bouquet of Christmas spices and raspberry notes. Exploring these abnormal wine varietals raises the question - why are grapes such a popular choice in winemaking versus other fruits? What forces are at play here?

The short answer is cost-savings. Apparently, grapes and wine are a match made in heaven. Grapes uniquely contain the right balance of sugars, acids, and tannins needed to make a long-lasting and flavorful fermented beverage. Most other fruits simply cannot produce wines that last as long or taste as good without additives - that is, grape wine is cheaper to produce compared to other wines. 

But are fruit wines as inferior to traditional wines as "the market" would have us believe? The EU legislature has ruled - with strong support from major European wine brands - that wine should be legally defined as "a drink made from fermented grape juice". Does this sound at all like the "soy milk can't be called milk" debate raised by dairy incumbents here in the U.S? This is an interesting example of how industry incumbents, particularly in F&D, can raise barriers to entry via the law and labeling squabbles.

The rise of the kiwis

Looking at some wine export data for our paper on Romania, we made this chart showing what percentage of its wine production a few select countries are exporting. We thought the rise of New Zealand in late 90s and throughout the 21st century was pretty remarkable. Pulled ahead by its Suavignon Blancs, New Zealand not only massively grew its production but also exporting almost all of this new production. Helped by its reputation from the historical links to anglosaxon countries, such as the UK, US and Australia, it never struggled to find new demand. At the same time, its citizens own preferences for drinking didn't change and despite massively increasing production, it still imports about a third of its average 20 litres per person per year consumption, a lot more than countries that have a similarly thriving export industry such as Italy or Spain. 

Large fortune to make a small fortune

during my investment banking days, as I zoned out staring at my computer screen and its blinking cursor, I used to dream about an idyllic life owning a small vineyard and making a small wine label.  I never discounted the challenge of learning winemaking from the ground up, but assumed that having a small operation where you could be closely connected to your product and got you more involved with nature would be a nice reprieve from the monotonous hours in a cubicle.

That dream seems untenable these days as I learn more about the Wente and Kingston families and their respective decades-long tribulations in building out a business, and about the growers in the Long Island region.  Even as DTC becomes more prevalent and mitigates some of the onerous requirements from the 21st Amendment, I didn't realize how much investment was required to make half-decent wine, let alone good wine.  I expect that pioneers in new wine regions today have extremely patient timelines, knowing that few will realize a profit or achieve scale sufficient to sustain the business until close to their retirement.