Sunday, February 10, 2019

The Great French Wine Blight

Grape Phylloxera. What the heck is that? We keep talking about it as if it is a commonly known event/disease/thing that I don't even know enough to classify. I certainly didn't know what it was and I have been faking it the last few weeks, acting like I did. Even worse, I cannot pronounce it! So I decided to do some basic Wikipedia-ing to find out! Here is what I learned:

The "disease" was brought across the Atlantic from the States to Europe in the late 1850s and it was first recorded in France in 1863 in Languedoc. The aphid (insect) that caused the damage, however, was known to the French much earlier and was first discovered by the French themselves in their plantations in Florida in the 16th century. as they tried to plant grape vines there, but failed quickly. The Phylloxera is a pest that injects a venom that is very deadly to the European variety of grape vine. The toxin the bug releases targets the root structure of the vine and quickly corrodes it, allowing the bug to insert its feeding tube and extract the sap. The insect then moves on as soon as it has had its fill, making it hard for the vintners to discover the cause at first. But how did it finally cross the Atlantic? It is believed that the invention of the steam ship allowed quicker transport of American vines to Europe, which the Europeans had been experimenting with for years. The quicker journey gave the aphids better chances of surviving and led to their arrival in the mid 19th century. After trying many solutions, including positioning toads and fowl near the vines to get them to eat the insects, ultimately Americans and French together discovered that by grafting the European vines to the to the aphid-resistant American rootstock, they could save the European vine stock. The process / event of saving the European vines became known as the "reconstitution" by the European grape growers. In modern day, there is no known cure for the blight, and the only way to prevent it is to use grafted vines. The only exception is a vine that grows in Santorini, however, people believe it has more to do with the volcanic ash in which the vines are planted, and not the roots themselves. While most European vines are now grafted, some still remain ungrafted and untouched by the blight, sparking a debate as to which produces better wines. Bollinger is one such vineyard that uses ungrafted vines. I say, let's test them all and find out!

Canned Wine

After finding myself once again coming to the defense of canned wine this past weekend, I felt compelled to bring myself up to speed on the new phenomenon (as my friends can confirm, lack of knowledge rarely discourages me from picking sides). While still striking many as a novelty (Neilsen estimates canned packaging to only comprise ~0.2% of the US off-prem sales), the canned market has actually been booming over the past couple years (+59.5% YoY in 2017). [1]

I was first introduced to canned wine about 12 months back in my local San Francisco grocery store, and was immediately struck by its convenience: its portion size was perfect for a Saturday afternoon at Fort Mason (admittedly, the back of the can says 2-2.5 servings), and it was easy to carry / dispose of without the added headache of a glass bottle.

While beer and other beverages have been retailed in cans for some time now, canning still wine has required a recent step-forward in material science. In addition to a specially designed resin liner on the inside of the can (you never want the wine to touch the aluminum can), canned beverages need to be manufactured in a sturdy way. While beers and soda have the benefit of carbon dioxide (which creates a high pressure level inside a sealed can), wine requires liquid nitrogen (harmless to the health of the wine and consumers) to re-create equivalent pressure levels inside the can. Recent advances in cost-effective manufacturing techniques for both the resin liner and use of liquid nitrogen have allowed quality canned wine to become reality. [2]

In fact, there may also be quality and environmental benefits as well. As the packaging's (non-aesthetic) goal is to prevent the air and light from contaminating the wine, aluminum cans' UV resistant exterior and air-tight design are actually a cost-effective option for producers (particularly those small scale wineries looking to minimize packaging costs). Additionally, as canned wines reduce total weight on a volumetric basis, this also results in fuel cost savings for wineries (cans are also much easier to stack, which could drive additional transportation / handling cost savings through the logistics chain). [3]

If you're convinced, here's a list of top canned wine options: https://vinepair.com/buy-this-booze/10-best-canned-wines-2018/. In addition, I'm partial to West + Wilder as it's what I started off with (available at K&L in Redwood City).

Sources:
[1] https://www.nielsen.com/us/en/insights/news/2018/heard-it-through-the-grapevine-wine-trends-to-watch-for-in-2018.html
[2] http://palatepress.com/2015/12/wine/the-some-science-behind-canned-wine/
[3] https://www.chowhound.com/food-news/216899/is-canned-wine-the-new-boxed-wine/