Saturday, February 2, 2019

Riedel and Zalto

When we received our Gabriel-Glas wine glass (it’s awesome, by the way!), someone told me that the glass was too heavy to be considered “high quality.” 

This comment triggered my curiosity about what traits make glassware “high-quality.” In particular, I’ve always wondered about two brands that I've often seen associated with “high quality” - Riedel and Zalto. Riedel, I’ve heard about for some time, and Zalto is one brand that I’ve been seeing more recently at high-end restaurants.  

I did not realize that there would be so many factors, beyond price point and weight, that affect the “quality” perception and stemware purchasing decision. Some factors that I was surprised by: the specific wine (and vintage) that’s going into the glass, shape of the “bowl” and how that affects the aromas, “breakability,” height of the glass and the corresponding aesthetic appeal (i.e. “stumpiness”), circumference of the stem, thickness of the glass’s rim, the “sparkliness,” and so forth. 

In summary, both Riedel and Zalto reviews emphasized their “lightness” (which contrasted with the “sturdy” Gabriel Glas glass we are using) and appeared to be comparable with each other. Based on online reviews, Riedel was more versatile than Zalto. Zalto is even thinner and lighter than Riedel, but comes with the catch of being much more "breakable.” 

Pasted below are some Riedel/Zalto review highlights, in the event you ever find yourself in the market for expensive, high-end stemware. 

Riedel Vinum: (2 for $49 on amazon)
  • “Stem’s ideal weight, balance, and most important, the rounded shape of the bowl...yields a broader spectrum of fruit aromas and suppresses the undesirable notes” (Yoon Ha, Sommelier of Benu)
  • “More expensive than our main pick, but it’s an elegant, thinner all-purpose glass…The elongated tulip-shaped bowl did an excellent job enhancing the aromas fo both red and white wines. Though this non-leaded crystal glass (Fortified with lead oxide alternatives to make it more sparkly) appears delicate, its surprisingly durable and dishwasher safe….Laser-cut rim provides a thin edge” (Wirecutter)

Zalto Denk’Art Universal: (1 for $62 on amazon)
  • "Zalto is an extremely light glass, with an extremely delicate stem…Wine glass from Austria, known to be “Graceful and well-balanced.” When picking it up, the glass feels so light and the stem is so delicate.” 
  • “The glasses really bring out the best in wine… particularly love them for Champagne. You can really pick up all those complex aromas from Champagne without losing the bubbles!” 
  • “Both red and white wines showcased unbelievably well in this glass….sparks brilliantly under the light, and its delicate stem is pulled the thinnest out of all the glasses we tested…ideal for special occasions or when enjoying your favorite vintage."

Sources: 

Dana Estates

Kingston Family Vineyards reminded me a lot of Dana Estates in Napa Valley. Both are small, high-quality, family-owned, and hospitality-oriented. A recent visit to Dana in August 2018 included cheese and cracker pairings with the wine tastings, as well as an unsolicited tour of the facilities. Given the parallels between the two vineyards, I did a little more digging into Dana.  

Hi Sang Lee (the founder of Dana Estates) began cultivating wine knowledge through an import business. Initially, he led an import business for wines into South Korea. At the time, Korea had (and still has) a strong drinking culture, but primarily in the form of beer and soju - and not, wine. 

In 2005, Lee opened a vineyard in Napa Valley with the help of vintners - Philippe Melka, Chris Cooney (winemakers) and Pete Richmond. He purchased the old Livingston-Moffet Winery and set out to create a high-quality wine. 

He took a “responsible farming” approach. Dana Estate vineyards are farmed on a vine-by-vine basis, and production is low - usually under two tons per acre. During the first few years, they produced under 500 cases. 

More recently, Dana Estates received their first perfect score - 100 points on the 2007 Lotus Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon by wine critic Robert Parker. They sell directly through mailing lists, and now, through some major distributors such as K&L. A recent searches showed their high-end wine Dana Estates priced at $490, the mid-end “Onda” at $200, and low-end “Vaso” at  $85. I’ve also recently seen Onda and Vaso on flights, flipping through the duty free magazines. 

I was surprised by the parallels between Hi Sang and Courtney’s businesses - starting with a growing knowledge in importing, partnering with a renowned vintner, focusing on direct-to-consumer distribution channels, investing in organic / “high touch” grape-growing, and gaining popularity (and huge price hikes!) after receiving high wine critic scores. I’d be curious to see how many other small, family-owned vineyards take a similar approach. 

Sources:

Most obscure vineyard in the world?


While the Central Otago region of New Zealand that we presented on is the southernmost wine region in the world and is rapidly growing, the same may not be said for its northernmost cousin. The vineyard at the Olkiluoto Nuclear Power Plant in Finland sits on 0.1 hectare and produces 850kg of Zilga grapes each year. The water that is used in the power plant is discharged into the surrounding Sea as well as into the vineyard in order to warm the soil and combat the extreme cold temperatures of the region.

The Finland wine industry is somewhat non-existent, but I'm not sure that this oddity is going to jumpstart a surge in radioactive wine. Finland has 1 other nuclear power plant, and it is yet to produce wine of its own. 

Try as I may, I was unable to find a bottle for purchase on the internet - the hunt continues!

Source: https://www.thedrinksbusiness.com/2016/07/top-10-extraordinary-vineyards/4/