Last summer, my friend, Allie, and I decided to take a day
trip from Paris down to wine country. The Loire Valley was the easiest region
to get to by train, so we found ourselves pulling into Tours station, picking
up a rental car, and heading off into the wonders of Touraine.
Having studied a bit about the local wines before our trip,
we were prepared to see a healthy blend of chenin blanc, sauvignon blanc, and
cabernet franc. Imagine our surprise when at our final destination of the day,
the lovely Château de Nitray, we were presented with a bottle made from a
strange new grape: “Côt.”
We, frankly, did not have the French language skills to
inquire too deeply as to what was in our glasses, but we enjoyed it enough to
buy a couple of bottles that were made short work of upon our return to Paris.
Recently, Allie and I were reminiscing about Château de
Nitray and decided to check the website to find out how we could buy its wines
in the U.S. Right there in the “Our Wines” section, we once again encountered Côt. This time, I was
determined to learn more. I opened a new Google tab, and down the rabbit hole I
went.
This mysterious Côt, it turns out, was simply a different
name for a grape that I was already quite familiar with: Malbec.
French Côt has played a supporting role in Bordeaux blends
(under the name Malbec) for hundreds of years, but it wasn’t until it found its
way to Argentina in the 1800s (Barnes) that the varietal really hit its stride.
Though many of the Malbec vines that migrated within France settled in Cahors
(where they eventually earned their new name, “Côt”), some made their way up to
the Loire Valley, all the way to Touraine, where I would eventually encounter
them (Friedrich).
The French grapes in Tours differ from their South American
cousins in that they tend to be lighter in body and in alcohol, lower in
tannins, and more refined in flavor. They have even earned a reputation for
being more elegant than their neighbors in Cahors (Friedrich). With the same
black fruit flavor of the Argentinian grape, but less of the richness, Côt
presents itself as the perfect summer red.
Here’s to counting down the days until it’s warm enough to
truly enjoy it.
Sources:
Barnes, Amanda. “What’s the Difference Between Cot and
Malbec?” Website. South
America
Wine Guide. 31 July 2018. Web. Accessed 31 Jan 2019.
Friedrich, Jacqueline. “Perfect for Summer Drinking Try Cot,
France’s Answer to
Argentinian Malbec.” Website. Eater. Vox Media. 9 July 2015. Web.
Accessed 31
Jan 2019.
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